Levisticum. Umbelliferae. One species, a glabrous perennial herb to 2m, strongly scented of celery; stems hollow, finely striate, flushed purple-pink at base. leaves to 70cm, outline triangular-rhombic, 2-3-pinnate, emerging bronze, ultimately dark green, segments rhombic, base cuneate, to 11cm, margins irregularly toothed and lobed above middle; petiole hollow. Umbels with 12-20 rays; involucre of linear-lanceolate bracts, deflexed, margin scarious; involucel of similar bracteoles, connate at base; flowers bisexual, green-yellow. Fruit 5-7mm. Summer. E Mediterranean, naturalised over much of Europe and US. Z4.

Levisticum officinale, lovage, is widely naturalised in meadow land throughout Britain and much of Europe, having long been cultivated in herb and vegetable gardens for its sharp but pleasantly yeasty-flavoured leaves, roots and stems. Levisticum has a number of culinary uses; the dried root was once ground for use as a condiment, having a pleasant nutty flavour. The grated fresh root is eaten as a cooked vegetable or raw in salads, and the leaves and shoots are used as savory herbs. A sweetly scented herbal tea can be made from the dried leaves, and the seed adds a distinctive flavour to savory biscuits.

A tall and undemanding perennial, reaching 1.8m in good conditions, Levisticum often has a long and useful life in cultivation and is hardy to at least -15ºC. Grow in sun or part shade in any deep, fertile, reasonably moist and well-drained soil; apply a mulch of well-rotted manure annually to conserve moisture. Cut some stems back almost to ground level throughout the season to maintain a supply of fresh young leaves. Stems may be blanched by earthing-up in the manner of trench celery. Divide and replant the fleshy rootstocks in early spring every third or fourth year to maintain vigour, or propagate from ripe seed. Sometimes attacked by leaf-mining flies and celery fly; cut out and burn affected shoots.